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Splinter, Jacoby 2NT or what?

#2 User is offline   Cromlyn 

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Posted 2012-January-01, 09:47

I open 1H with this hand:

KJ6
K9843
A
KJ52

My partner holds:

-
AQ62
K865
AQ974

1. Should he splinter with 3S, bid a Jacoby 2NT or make a waiting bid of 2C?

2. Whichever response you opt for how should the bidding proceed?
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#3 User is offline   billw55 

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Posted 2012-January-01, 09:55

Definite splinter for me. Spade waste is a big issue here and this will spell it out for partner right away.
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#4 User is offline   ggwhiz 

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Posted 2012-January-01, 10:27

I expect to be in the minority but have had sucess using the extra bidding room after jacoby 2NT.

North would respond 3nt (slight extra's, we don't show stiff A or K as shortness) and the cuebidding begins.

4 - 4
4 - 5

and south may now try 5nt, graded gsf.
6 by north shows 1 of the top 3 and south bids 7.
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#5 User is offline   aguahombre 

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Posted 2012-January-01, 11:03

View Postggwhiz, on 2012-January-01, 10:27, said:

I expect to be in the minority but have had sucess using the extra bidding room after jacoby 2NT.

You might be in the minority, but there will be a lot of people who have published that splinters should be limited in their dummy points (support points) and feel that responding hand is too much.

J2N people can handled this one with GOOD follow-ups. Non-J2N people can handle it with 2C and good agreements. A splinter sets up a situation where responder uses up room and then must bid again over a 4H signoff --virtually taking over the hand.
"Bidding Spades to show spades can work well." (Kenberg)
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#6 User is online   mike777 

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Posted 2012-January-01, 11:21

Definitely 2nt, way too strong for splinters which promise a limited hand.

After that a bit tough but Bergens Jacoby 2nt helps here.

1h=2nt
3c(various non minimum hands)=3h(asking bid in clubs)
4c(K)=5s(exclusion)
6d(2denyQH)=7h

Good problem, I think this is the first deal I have ever seen that I used a Bergen asking bid after 2nt and exclusion in one hand.

OTOH expect many here in the forums to prefer 2c
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#7 User is offline   ahydra 

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Posted 2012-January-01, 11:32

1H-2NT (GF raise in H) [I like to keep splinters to 11-14 or virtual-slam-forcing hands, since they eat so much room]
3C (nat with extras) - 4C (nat)
4D (cue) - 4S (cue)
4NT (RKC in H) - 5NT (2 with a void)
6C (asks the heart Q) - 7H

Requires some partnership understanding, since some would play 6C as asking for 3rd round control in C, and some would just play it as natural and pass :)

ahydra
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#8 User is offline   TWO4BRIDGE 

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Posted 2012-January-01, 12:17

1H - Jac2NT
3D! ( shortness ) - 3H ( waiting for more cuebids )
3S - 3NT! ( waiting somemore )
4C - 4NT! ( Meckwell Exclusion RKC for , excluding the A; 4S! would have been regular kickback-RKC for )
5H ( 2 - Q ) - 5NT ( K-ask )... surprise, surprise... shortness is stiff Ace )
6C ( K, as expected ) - 7H
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( 1M-1NT!-3m-?? )." ....Justin Lall

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#9 User is offline   whereagles 

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Posted 2012-January-01, 17:37

The bid is 2C. The hand is too strong for splintering. Splinters and jacoby should be limited to like 11-14. Any more than that and you're constantly guessing whether to go beyond opener's sign-off.

But hey, nobody agrees with me on this (or on anything else for that matter), so do whatever you feel like and pray for the best.
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#10 User is offline   blackshoe 

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Posted 2012-January-01, 18:22

I think rather that Jacoby 2NT should be strong, not limited. Particularly if you can arrange to split the range for your splinters. For example

1M-3under (the suit under the major) shows four card support, a singleton or void somewhere, and 9+ to 12- HCP.
.......3over (the denomination just over the major) shows four card support, a singleton or void somewhere, and 12+ to 15- HCP.
.......2NT shows 15+ HCP, four card support, and may be balanced or unbalanced.

How do you show balanced hands in the game range?
.......4 shows four trumps with at least two of the top three honors and 12+ to 15- HCP
.......4 shows four trumps, fewer thant two of the top three honors, and 12+ to 15- HCP.

If my partner bid 2 and then supported hearts, I'd expect only three trumps in most cases.
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#11 User is offline   Fluffy 

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Posted 2012-January-01, 18:49

I would splinter to be able to show the void since I don´t use exclusion:

1-3
4-4
5-5NT (blackwood, excluding A)
6-7

Missing Q but partner wouldn´t colaborate with just stiff club K and A without the queen.
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#12 User is offline   Cyberyeti 

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Posted 2012-January-01, 19:20

I normally play void splinters with the singleton going through 2N, so this hand is easy.

Failing this I can use 1-3 to show 5 clubs to 2 of the top 3, 4 hearts to a top honour and opening hand plus.

So would not need any of the options above.

Playing more standard methods, it really depends what you've agreed about the nature of your splinters. You can handle bidding the hand by any of the methods listed, providing you're sure about your agreements. It also depends slightly whether 2 is F1 or FG, providing you play exclusion it should be pretty easy.

Even for example:

1-2
3-4(exclusion, clubs agreed, void spade)
5(2 keycards without Q outside spades)-5(bid 7 with a heart honour)
7-7

will get you there. Without exclusion available, I'd suggest 3 is the best start as 4 next strongly suggests the void.

My auction with normal partner would be:

1-3(void, show flat broke or give exclusion response)
4(2 keycards, no Q, I still have an opening bid without spade cards)-4(tell me more)
5(K)-5(K)
5(no more to show)-7(OK, you don't have A for 7N)
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#13 User is offline   Zelandakh 

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Posted 2012-January-02, 06:16

I play a scheme giving a full range for void/singleton splinters for different ranges. For the in-between splinter the response over 1H is 2S.

1H = 10-17 unbal, 5+ hearts
... - 2S = 4+ hearts, either a mini-splinter or an in-between splinter
2N = relay
... - 3S = void in-between splinter in any suit
3N = relay
... - 4H = spade void
4S = RKCB
... - 5H = 2 with HQ (or a 5th heart)
6C = club ask
... - 6S = CQ
7H

Playing standard methods I would respond either 2C or 2NT depending on which follow-up methods seemed more promising. If standard J2NT was the extent of the agreements then I would opt for 2C.
(-: Zel :-)
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#14 User is offline   Vampyr 

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Posted 2012-January-02, 08:36

View Postahydra, on 2012-January-01, 11:32, said:

1H-2NT (GF raise in H) [I like to keep splinters to 11-14 or virtual-slam-forcing hands, since they eat so much room]


I don't think that 11-14 or in fact any point range is very relevant for splinters. To get to the really thin slams you need aces and kings, not minor honours. I like splinters to be exactly 3 or 4 controls, with not very much outside unless it is in the trump suit (this doesn't mean that I will splinter with every hand that contains an ace and a king).
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#15 User is offline   TWO4BRIDGE 

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Posted 2012-January-02, 09:02

View PostZelandakh, on 2012-January-02, 06:16, said:

I play a scheme giving a full range for void/singleton splinters for different ranges. For the in-between splinter the response over 1H is 2S.


I like it. I've scratched my head for years wondering what the best use is for the 1H - 2S! sequence .
( And the follow-ups for the shortness [ no void ] seem straight forward ).
Don Stenmark
TWOferBRIDGE
"imo by far in bridge the least understood concept is how to bid over a jump-shift
( 1M-1NT!-3m-?? )." ....Justin Lall

" Did someone mention relays? " .... Zelandakh

K-Rex to Mikeh : " Sometimes you drive me nuts " .
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#16 User is offline   Zelandakh 

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Posted 2012-January-02, 10:17

View PostTWO4BRIDGE, on 2012-January-02, 09:02, said:

I like it. I've scratched my head for years wondering what the best use is for the 1H - 2S! sequence .
( And the follow-ups for the shortness [ no void ] seem straight forward ).


Glad you like it! The full follow-ups are

1H - 2S; 2NT (relay)
============
3m = mini-splinter
3H = mini-splinter with spade shortage
3S = side void, in-between strength
3N = spade singleton, in-between strength
4m = singleton in m, in-between strength

The same applies after a 1S opening but uses the 2NT bid, thus my "J2NT" is actually 3C over 1S.

1S - 2NT; 3C (relay)
============
3D/H = mini-splinter
3S = mini-splinter with club shortage
3N = side void, in-between strength
4m/H = singleton in suit, in-between strength
(-: Zel :-)
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#17 User is offline   kenrexford 

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Posted 2012-January-02, 14:46

KJ6
K9843
A
KJ52

-
AQ62
K865
AQ974

My auction:

1-2
3-4(exclusion)
5(two no Queen)-?

5 would be to play, so 5 asks for Kings. Partner cannot show the heart King without bypassing 6 except by way of 5NT, which is what this should show. So, if he does this, as he should, I then bid 7.
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#18 User is offline   Cyberyeti 

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Posted 2012-January-02, 16:06

View Postkenrexford, on 2012-January-02, 14:46, said:

KJ6
K9843
A
KJ52

-
AQ62
K865
AQ974

My auction:

1-2
3-4(exclusion)
5(two no Queen)-?

5 would be to play, so 5 asks for Kings. Partner cannot show the heart King without bypassing 6 except by way of 5NT, which is what this should show. So, if he does this, as he should, I then bid 7.

I agree 5 would normally be to play BUT it's nonsensical here, partner has shown a hand which could be AKJ, Jxxxx, Q, Jxxx from his previous bids, so could have shown zero, and you've committed to the 5 level, hence it's extremely unlikely you want to sign off opposite 2 keycards.
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#19 User is offline   Free 

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Posted 2012-January-03, 00:18

I would never splinter with this hand, it's way too strong for that! The alternatives are 2NT and 2, I prefer 2.
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#20 User is offline   Zelandakh 

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Posted 2012-January-03, 08:26

If you start 1H - 2C; 3C, you get an opportunity to use exclusion 6KCB - never waste a chance to use this as it is bound to impress everyone in the bar afterwards. ;)
eg
1H - 2C
3C - 3H
3S - 4NT (X6KCB of course :) )
5D - 7H

is the simple version. Or you could bid 5NT over 5D if you have an agreement as to which of 6C and 6H shows the A... B-)
(-: Zel :-)
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#21 User is offline   mikeh 

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Posted 2012-January-03, 11:12

I would have responded 2 and thereafter many reasonable sequences lead to the optimum contract. Of course one doesn't know that partner will raise clubs when one has to choose one's response, but I think 2 is best because:

1. It is cheap....thus maximizing bidding space
2. It is gf, but of course so are the alternatives
3. It is descriptive...far more so than either alternative. It will, for example, cause partner to become enthused about the club K. And should he bid 2, for example, you may be able to bring that suit into the picture in terms of counting tricks/losers for grand purposes.


As for the alternatives:

Splinter: unless you have a way to differentiate, immediately, between a void and a stiff, the splinter may harm your auction rather than help it. We hold stiffs more often than voids, so partner will assume a spade loser, unless he has the A, and evaluate his hand incorrectly. The corollary is that the spade A is unlikely to help your hand....which 4th round minor card are you planning to pitch? So he will upgrade the A inappropriately.

If you do have the ability to differentiate early, I suspect it is achieved by making a high-level bid...consuming vast bidding space on an auction where you have far more high cards and far more controls than he should play you for. You may survive, but you will have jammed your own auction.

J2N: obviously how successful this will be will depend on your agreements. However, many variants will leave the partnership fumbling to clarify the minor suit holdings. In addition, most J2N structures have some degree of focus on opener's strength range, which really isn't very important here. What counts here is degree of fit...where are opener's hcp? The best way to find this out is to embark on low-level, forcing and natural bidding.

xx Kxxxx Ax Kxxx makes for a great grand and one that can be bid easily enough after 2, but if opener jumps to 4 over 2N, as many schemes would require, then responder is going to have a terrible time finding grand.

Both splinter and J2N appear to me to be efforts to take control of the auction. Normally a splinter isn't a captaincy-grabbing call, but this hand is so good that I doubt that anyone intends to splinter and then pass a 4 signoff...which means that one isn't splintering descriptively, but as a convenient way of taking control. Complicated hands with trick sources and controls can afford, imo, to bid more co-operatively.
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