Squeeze
Smith Echo
Obvious Shift principle
Theoretical advantages to RKCB 1430 over 0314
and my personal favorite, beginner's guide to the scrambling 2NT (!)
If you are looking at these things and saying 'HUH???', then you are like the rest of the beginners and many of my wife's students that have been playing bridge for years and perhaps this 'Beginner & Intermediate discussion' SHOULD be for you. But quite likely, what has happened, is that you've read some of these posts, decided that the game wasn't for you after all, and taken up some other pasttime. Which is too bad, since I see 140 students each Monday morning in the winter all having a whale of a time, many getting together and playing with their newfound friends from class, and none of them will ever hear about a Smith Echo or any of that other aforementioned confounded stuff.
What does a beginner know?
About week 10 of a beginner's class, about half the beginners can take five tricks with AJ10xx opposite KQx (I'm totally serious), but a very low percentage will be able to take three tricks with AQJ opposite xxx (King onside), despite having been taught it and having seen a few lesson hands with a similar situation. In the more experienced class containing people that have played for years, about a third to a half will make four tricks with AKQ10 opposite xxxx with the jack fourth onside (marked finesse.) On a 'complicated' auction like 1D-1S-2C-2NT-3NT, it is likely that no more than 2 or 3 of our 35 tables will have the right auction. If you're not sure what all these bids mean, then I think this board should be for you - IMHO, things much more complicated than that shouldn't be on a board with a 'beginner' label on it. Maybe we need something between 'beginner/int' and the expert board.
Maybe all you people who are talking about 1430 and obvious shifts can tell me that I'm all wet - that the beginners are just dumb in my area but the beginners on BBO are the world's smartest and can understand all this stuff! (I'm not going to believe you - having to talked to other teachers all around the US, but you can tell me anyway.)
In any event, I'm proposing a short quiz in this post. I expect that most beginners should get at most one right and if you've been playing a year or so and aren't Mensa material, you might get 3 or 4 right. If someone thinks I'm way off base about the levels, let me know.
By the way, if you aren't an experienced player, and don't get many of these right, don't feel bad, you did as well as I expected. I'm not trying to bruise any egos. What I am trying to do is make the content of this discussion board more for you. Now, I can expect that I'm going to hear from all the hotshots that think this is too easy. And for a lot of you, it is. But, if you are a real beginner, and don't want to tell the world how poorly you did, let me know at paulhar@juno.com. Nobody but me will ever know.
Assume you are playing Standard American (SAYC??)
1. You hold: ♠ 3 2 ♥ K J 10 9 6 5 ♦ Q 5 4 ♣ 7 3
Your partner opens one spade. What is your plan? (Plan after a club rebid by partner, and after a spade rebid by partner.)
2. You hold: ♠ K 6 5 4 3 ♥ 7 5 ♦ Q 4 ♣ Q 9 5 3
Your partner opens one heart. You bid one spade (I hope.) Your parnter bids 2 diamonds. Your call?
3. You hold: ♠ K 6 5 4 3 ♥ 7 5 ♦ Q 4 ♣ A Q 9 5
Your partner opens one heart. You bid one spade (I hope.) Your parnter bids 2 diamonds. Your call?
4. You hold: ♠ 6 5 ♥ 7 5 ♦ A K Q J 6 4 ♣ 9 5 3
Your partner opens one notrump. Your call?
5. You hold: ♠ K J 10 4 ♥ 7 5 ♦ A Q 4 ♣ K 9 5 3
Your right hand opponent opens one spade. Your call?
6. You hold: ♠ Q J 7 4 ♥ A 7 5 ♦ 6 4 ♣ 10 9 5 3
Your left hand opponent opens one heart. Your partner doubles. Your right hand opponent bids two hearts. Your call?
7.
Dummy:
S - A 5 4
H - 6 4 3 2
D - J 6 5
C - J 4 2
Declarer:
S - K Q 10 7 3
H - A K
D - 7 3 2
C - A K Q
You are in four spades with no opposition bidding. The opponents take the first three diamonds and play a heart. Plan the play.
8.
Dummy:
S - A 5 4
H - 6 4 3 2
D - J 6 5
C - J 4 2
Declarer:
S - K Q J 10 9 3
H - 9
D - A K
C - A 7 6 5
You are in four spades with no opposition bidding. The opponents lead the king of hearts, winning, and then the queen of hearts. Play the play.
9. Against the opponents' 1H P 3H P 4H, your partner leads the ace of diamonds (showing the king.) What do you play at trick 1:
Dummy: (the 3H bidder)
S - 9 5
H - K 7 4 2
D - Q 10 6 3
C - K Q J
You have (third hand)
S - K Q 8 3
H - Q J 10
D - 9 2
C - 9 7 5 2
Answers:
1. You don't have enough strength to bid 2 hearts. Bid 1NT, showing 6-10 points (some will say 6-9) and nothing that can be bid at the one level, and denying support for partner. Having limited your hand to 10 points, if your partner bids again, say 2C, you can happily bid your hearts. Your partner should know from your first bid that you are weak and should pass. You usually should have six hearts for this bid. If partner had bid two spades over 1NT instead, you have found an eight-card fit (pard should have six) and you have no game, so you should pass. (I think you should pass with a singleton spade as well, no sense in burying your side deeper.)
2. Let's eliminate the bad stuff. First, 3C is forcing and will take you too high. 2NT is invitational, showing 11-12 - partner would bid 3NT with just a little more than a minimum opener. You have a minimum hand. Bidding two spades shows a weak hand, which you have, but your partner will almost always pass, even with a singleton or void. You have no desire to play 2S opposite a singleton, do you? OK, what about pass? How many hearts has partner shown? 5. How many diamonds? 4. Which is the better spot? Hearts, with seven trump. Won't partner be misled if I bid two hearts? No, you didn't bid 2H the first time; you shouldn't have three. Also, you are showing a weak hand (any previously bid suit at the two level shows a minimum.) So, settle for what appears to be the least of evils; bid 2H.
3. 3C virtually forces to game and you're not strong enough. You're too strong for an old suit at the two level and don't have enough spades to bid 3S which partner could pass with a singleton. Bid 2NT, invitational. If partner is good, you won't miss a 5-3 spade fit if you have a game; he'll bid 3S "on the way" to game if accepting your invitation. If you don't understand the last statement, don't worry, it's pretty advanced stuff.
4. If your RHO is your boss, you might bid 3D to avoid having him lead an embarrassing diamond. If you want to win, forget the diamonds and bid 3NT, the game you know you belong in. If you want to tell partner about your nice diamonds, wait until you lay your dummy down and mention that you have nice diamonds.
5. You have an opening hand. So what? You have no five card suit to overcall. (Even 2C would show 5 - some experts think it shows 6 most of the time.) You don't have enough to bid 1NT. If you double for takeout, and partner bids hearts (what you expect), you're in a pickle - if you now bid 2NT, you're showing a hand that was too good to overcall 1NT - but your partner might know better when lefty doubles you for 800.
6. Your side has about half the points. Your partner has support for all suits but hearts. Why let their side play it when your side has just as much as theirs? Bid 2S.
7. You can't afford to lose a trump. If spades are 3-2, no problem. If you play the ace, then king, and RHO has four to the jack, you can't get back to dummy to finesse. Play the king (or queen) first, then low to the ace. Then if lefty shows out, you can finesse the 10 to make all your trumps. Don't feel bad if you didn't get this one. Most of our experienced students would not make this hand with jack-fourth on the right.
8. What are your losers? One heart and three clubs. Too many! How will we get rid of a loser? Your clubs are shorter in dummy than in your hand. Play the ace and another club. When you get in, lose another club. When you get in again, trump a club with the ace of spades for your tenth trick. Don't even draw one round of trumps; an opponent with three trumps can lead trumps when he gets in with clubs and you won't have any trumps to trump that last club with, and will have to depend on a 3-3 club break.
9. This is the one our beginners would get right. Not for the right reason! You probably know that you signal high-low with a doubleton so you can get a ruff. Do you want a ruff? You have a natural trump trick, so the ruff does you no good, and sets up the ♦Q in dummy which the declarer will gratefully discard on after pulling your other two trump. Discourage diamonds (with the deuce, playing normal signals) and partner will probably shift to a spade (not much sense in playing clubs from his point of view.) When you get your trump trick, you happily take your spade and lead to your partner's diamond King.
The full hand:
If you encourage and get your ruff, declarer loses three trick, since his spade loser goes away on dummy's queen of diamonds. If you discourage, yes even with your doubleton, you score a spade, a trump, and two diamonds.
If you've been playing less than a year, I suspect you got more than half of these wrong. OK, everyone, do I have the levels right or not? If so, why are we talking about the scrambling 2NT here?