[ruotal]

Hi all !

Is it possible to have some hints to determine when it is time to X for penalty at levels 2-3-4-5 ?

How many trumps, how many points ! which sort of hand etc


ruotal

[Robert]

Hi everyone

Most advanced+ players play negative doubles so the question would be what type of hand is needed to pass partner's takeout/balancing double.

Almost all of my doubles are for takeout or show some non penalty hand type. If I want to play for penalty, I pass and let partner 'reopen' with a takeout/balancing double.

I have also played doubles for takeout over my NT openings and I have found that I get better results playing takeout rather than penalty.

The solution varies with the vulnerablity and form of scoring. Playing MPs, down one vul. will beat any partscore and so matchpoint players will often try to defend for plus 200 rather than attempt to make their own partscore.

Playing IMPs the 'rule' that I was taught is to double for a two(+) trick set.

At the two/three level you normally need something like a decent 4(+) holding(Q10xx+ with about 10+HCP). At the four level, you are normally showing 'cards' with a double and partner is expected to pass with most normal shaped hands.

Playing MPs you might defend a three level contract with honor third 'if' you hold the balance of the HCPs. That down one doubled vul. score of +200 is almost always a top.

While playing IMPs(or rubber bridge) you will do fairly well to take 300+ vs a possible 400/420 game and 500+ for your 600/620

High card points are not equal. Queens and Jacks(unless in the trump suit) will not take as many tricks as the same number of HCP in Aces and Kings.

You might also want to go over some hands and learn how to defend low level contracts. Some hands require a 'forcing' game by making declarer shorten his trumps by ruffing. Some other hands need to have partner lead a trump so that you can draw declarer's trumps.

I learned to defend one level doubled contracts by playing a lot of Blue Team Club.
They did not play takeout doubles except 1D-(1S)-X which shows hearts.

Regards,
Robert

[P_Marlowe]

Hi,

have a look at "100 winning bridge tips" by Ron Klinger,
the worth reading, and you find to tips / rules, which may
help you to decide, if it is worth going for a low level penalty.

http://www.amazon.de/100-Winning-Duplicate...e/dp/0304366129

Another book which deals with this problem, is "Partnership bidding"
from Robson/Segal.

With kind regards
Marlowe

PS: Regarding high level decision, i.e. the 4 level, most of the time,
you should take the money, i.e. only bid on the 5 level, if you have a real
reason.

[helene_t]

The LOTT says you must defend when the level combined levels are at least 2 more than the combined trump lengths. For example, if the alternative to X-ing 2♠ is to take out with 3♣, the combined levels are 8+9=17 so you need a combined trump length of at least 17-1=16 to bid 3♣, e.g. they 7 spades and you 9 clubs.That's the rule I use, although
1) The formular is not always correct, especially at IMPs. You may sometimes have to factor in the vulnerability, although that issue is often over-rated
2) The LOTT can be improved by taking minor honours in long suits (a reason to bid on), minor honours in their suits (a reason to defend), double fit (reason to bid on), duplication of shortness (reason to defend) into account.
3) If the alternative is pass rather than 3♣, you generally need a high probability of defeating them. 51% is generally not enough. When they are vulnerable at matchpoints, though, a stretchy double is often a good strategy since if the field is in +110, +100 is a bottom while +200 is a top.